March 28, 2007
by Adam Kimmerly

Jeff Brown warming up on "Maxi Pod" 5.11c

With drastic closures of two of our favorite San Diego backcountry crags looming, the founding members of the ACSD knew we needed all the help we could get. We were in the early stages of the formation of the group, and we needed to get the word out about the pending closures fast. The Access Fund had already aligned their efforts with ours, but we needed more publicity.

Through some friends and connections, we heard that the Access Fund Ambassador, Chris Sharma was going to be in town for an Access Fund fund-raiser. What better way to get the word out about an access issue than to have Chris Sharma come to your local crag? Well, things worked out as we had hoped, I called in sick to work, and a few of us met up with Chris to show him around and shoot some photos.

Chris wasn't the only one who hadn't been to Eagle Peak. This would be my first trip to Eagle Peak as well, so Jeff Brown and I showed up early to squeeze in a couple of routes before Kevin Worrall arrived with Chris. As we rapped off of a delicate, fun 5.10+ face route, Chris and Kevin came walking down the trail.

Kevin and Chris check out the routes

Kevin raps in to catch the action from above

Jeff took a lap on Maxi Pod 5.11c, then Chris warmed up on it while we waited for the other routes to go into the shade. The main attraction for the day, however, would be a 3-pitch link-up P1 Crazy Horse 5.12b, Soy Chango 5.11c, and P3 of Crazy Horse 5.11a - all excellent quality pitches.

Chris on P1 of "Crazy Horse" 5.12b

Jeff and Chris at the first belay

Kevin rapped into position to shoot from above and I captured the side angle as Chris made the pitch look as easy as a 4th class scramble. Jeff followed up and they both commented on the quality of the pitch from the first belay.

The next pitch is a classic overhung juggy face unlike anything I've seen elsewhere in San Diego. Again, Chris climbed incredibly smoothly and made the pumpy pitch look easy.

Chris on "Soy Chango" 5.11c

Chris on Pitch 3 of "Crazy Horse"

The third pitch runs up this striking, blunt, vertical arete. The lighting was fantastic for a good silhouette and Kevin had a great view from above.

We can't thank Chris enough for coming out to our local playground and helping us spread the word about our access issues and look forward to having the opportunity to climb with him again soon.